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After the success of the backyard pavestone patio, and after I had forgotten how much fun it is to move 18,000 pounds of pavestones, I decided to tackle another area with pavestones.  Many of the houses in my neighborhood have wing-walls.  The area between my western neighbor and my house has been problematic forever.  It is too dark to grow anything behind it, and getting grass to grow between is difficult do to to water runoff and foot traffic.  So it is the perfect candidate for pavestones.  It also was a nice project to illustrate how easy pavestone installation is.  So on with the pictures and directions.

Step 1 - Define the Border

This picture shows the area which is just about impossible to get anything to grow in. It is too shaded and too trafficed. And walking though it when it is wet gets shoes muddy.

Another view of the area to be "paved." I've decided to make a diaginal line across the back and a rounded front with the existing walls and bed edges defining the rest.

Step 2 - Dig out the area.

Next, I've dug the area out to about 1" deeper than the pavestones are thick. I've taken care to follow the ground contours, maintain the base undisturbed, and firmly pack down anywhere I did disturb it so I have a firm base.

Step 3 - the sand bed.

The next step is to fill the area with unpacked sand. I used bulk sand from a stone yard for 1/10th what it would have cost to buy bags at a home center. Normally I'd lay 1" pipe down and draw a straight board across it, but the curved shape here requires that I level by hand.

I'm using the levels to make sure I've got the sand at just the right level to match the yard and insure correct drainage.

The sand bed is done.

A front view of the completed bed.

Step 4 - Place Full Bricks

Normally step 5. Typically, I'd start with a course of bricks at the edge and work from that. For this project, placement around the wing walls was my concern, so I started there. I'm doing all the full bricks first.

Step 5 - Edging

Normally step 4. I've determined the edge location and installed flexible edge with 12" long spikes driven into the ground. This edging hold the edge bricks in place.

I've choosen to mix a few colors to break up the solid color. I've also places bricks around where I need a partial brick. Given that there are always broken or chipped bricks, this is how they get used up.

I've used a piece of metal bed edging on the far side, where the neighbor has a loose brick edging.

I've now completed all the full bricks. I bought more bricks that the area is, knowing that there will be a lot of scrap pieces around the edge.

Step 6 - Cut Partial Pieces

I've rented a wetsaw (aka tilesaw) with a masonary blade to cut the bricks. Don't use a tile blade and remember you will have to change the water frequently due to the amount of grit generated. I mark each brick, cut it, and put it in place.

Due to the large number of cuts for this small space, and the need to frequently change the saw water, I've made quite a mess.

The next step is to fill the dirt in around the edge of the pavestones, covering up the edging and leveling out the grround.

The final steip is to put a thick layer of sand on top and work it with a broom into the spaced between the bricks. This locks the bricks in place.

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